Feb-2016

Went to Lima on Dec 23rd (flight at 4:30am – seemed like a good idea at the time) and back on Jan 3rd. Julie Rich Tom and Melissa were there, and they had a fabulous time in Cuzco (or Qosqo as in an irritating PC book I’m reading). They really enjoyed the whole trip, and were self-starting, and Tom and Melissa were a delight. Tom did surfboarding, and was soon standing up on the board by himself. He made great friends with Daniel (re Sylvia). ConCon (re Monica & Conrado) is now grown up, and is probably the best polo player in Peru, with a handicap of 4. Carolina (re Monica) was over for a short visit from her hotel admin college in Lausanne. Alison is Alison, and Harry is terrific at 88. We played Burraco (a Canasta-like card game) with them continually. Tom and Melissa loved it, and will probably play it back in UK.

We hired a mini-bus to take us to Paracas, where they have a house (by the water, several bedrooms, swimming pool, live-in maid and husband) and spent an idyllic 3 days chilling out. A boat trip to see the candelabra carved into the hill by the ancients, an old guano island, seals, sea lions, penguins, and lots of birds. The pelicans are a beautiful sight gliding inches above the water, with only the occasional wing flap. On the way back we stopped at Quipa (60km from Lima), a small bay where A and H have had a house for ever, but to see Sylvia and Fede in their new house, which is at the end of the bay with spectacular architecture. They have an infinity pool right over the sea, and most people went in.

Back in Lima had a great family NY-eve do at Monica’s (which is on the other side of the 50m pool from Alison’s). Rich has mastered the art of Pisco Sour, which I expect to see reproduced in UK.

If all this sounds rather glamorous, well it is, and can’t be helped. It was really magical to have so many family members together, and we’re so glad we did it.

Lima is so different from what I remember from childhood, 10 times more people, apartment blocks, traffic, slums. Also, if BA is 2nd world, Peru is 3rd world, with much visible poverty, the river Rimac piled with rubbish, a micro-bus with only 3 out of 5 nuts on the wheels, etc. But vibrant, moving forward.

Back in BA, we had been walking in town, and on the way back Amber was up ahead, and I went over a big bump in my buggy as I got back up on the pavement after crossing the road. 30m further down the pavement I heard a shout, and turning round I saw a young man running after me. Then I saw that in his hand he had my wallet, which he handed to me, accepted my brief thanks, and went back to the corner. My wallet had been in my trouser pocket, normally quite secure, with about US$100 in it. That was very nice of him, but the point was that his action was not at all a surprise. People here are in general most remarkably kind, polite, helpful, and civic minded.

Astra and Finn arrived after a 30 hour flying time journey. Astra stayed in Mercedes’ apartment while Mercedes was travelling for a week. A few days later I unfortunately did something to my back, and it affected my walking. Nevertheless we flew north to Salta, and got upgraded to a big 4x4 pick-up, and drove up to Tilcara. There was no sign of the floods which had reported half the town under water, an in fact the weather was fine all week (the BBC weather reports always show the weather there as being dreadful for some unexplained reason). The mountains here are really wonderful, with spectacular multi-coloured bands. We did a long 200km drive down a dirt road, with llamas, guanacos etc, and the salt flats which were mega impressive, and back over a 4,500m pass. The next day we walked to see the archaeological remains, and the next day Amber Astra and Finn did a long horse ride up to the Devil’s Throat waterfall. For the last couple of days we stayed in a lovely Airbnb place near Salta airport. We took the drive via Cachi to Colome, to visit the world’s highest vineyards (and Argentina’s oldest), where the bodega had a display of James Turrells art (look him up). It’s quite the thing for a rich European to take over a bodega, make big improvements, and build a ginormous art gallery. What??? Here??? A really fantastic drive by Amber (good thing she likes it), 9hrs on partly unpaved roads.

Back in BA I am slowly recovering my walking, but I have been staying in while the others go off for the day. Heigh ho!

Astra and Finn go back on Friday. Astra is very excited at the launch of her range of face-oils, could be good.

We will be going back to England on March 7th. As usual, we are very happy and contented here, but it does feel like it is time for a change.